Page 2 of Axle rebuild Part 1

 

When the spring is out, remove the old rubber bushings from the frame mounts. Since I was using aftermarket shackles and bushings, I needed to drill the rear frame mount bolt holes out to ½”. If you’re using OEM bushings, you don’t need to do this.

 

Here is what I feel are some necessary materials for reassembly:

  1. A good quality anti-seize
  2. Good penetrating oil. (PB Blaster is really amazing stuff, you should try it).
  3. A little refreshment for breaks.

 

Here is the shackle and bushings that I decided to use compared to the stock LJ equipment. The shackle is a “bone” shackle from Trail Tough. It’s ¾” longer than stock and beefy.

 

Next thing is to remove the old spring bushings from the frame mounts and the new springs and clean the recesses. Then install the new spring bushings and metal sleeves (on the aftermarket set). If you’re installing the sleeves, they come in two lengths; the longer go on the rear hanger. Be liberal with the silicone lube that’s included in the kit and smear it on good. You’ll thank yourself later. I don’t use the silicone on the bolts, I use the anti-seize for that.

 

Here’s the front bushing being installed. I like to use a “C” clamp, it makes things so much easier.

 

And installed:

 

Here’s the replacement spring ready for installation:

 

Tighten the bolts so they are tight, but you can still turn them with a wrench with a little effort. The rear OEM spring mount has a castellated nut with a cotter pin, the fronts have lock washers. The aftermarket has flat washers and nylock nuts.

 

If you didn’t remove the axle as I did and are just replacing springs, you can now reinstall the bump stops, u-bolts, and new shocks.

 

If you’re following along for the axle rebuild, Here is Part 2