1 – Servicing Seal on Transmission Output Shaft - LJ20
Procedure and homemade tools used for
non-destructive removal of seal with transmission in vehicle.
- “Old Codger New To Old Suzuki _eeps.
The unique 28X42X22 original seal for the transmission output shaft has
not been available for some time. However, Stevec recently devised a method of
making a replacement seal (Part 2 –
Servicing Seal on Transmission Output Shaft – LJ20). To use Stevec’s method, the old seal must be
removed without destroying it. The
following describes how to make and use two homemade tools which enable both
the old seal and the protective cup that covers it to be easily removed without
damage and without removing the transmission from the vehicle.
2. Making the Cup Puller: This puller consists of two partial sections of round steel tubing with one pulling arm welded to each. (see pictures on Page 3)
A. The ID of the tubing should be close to the approx 2 ½ in. OD of the cup. (I used the outer steel tube from the torque tube drive shaft of a 1954 Chev. Pickup)
B. The pulling arms were made of ¾ in. square tubing with holes drilled for bolts to enable attachment to a conventional two arm puller.
A. Clamp (loosely) the two sections of the puller to the outside of the cup with a radiator hose clamp ((see pictures on Page 4).
B. Position the rearward sides of each section so as to pull against the lip of the cup and tighten clamp securely.
C. Attach a two arm puller (I made the one pictured) to the pulling arms and position the end of the puller’s threaded shaft against the rear output shaft of the transmission.
the threaded shaft of the puller should pull the cup off of its mating surface.
5. Making the Seal Puller: (Look back to the drawing in Section 1) - With the seal width being
approximately 13/16 in. and the mating surface between the seal and
transmission being a little less than ½ in., this leaves an open space inside
the seal and between the end of the transmission and the back end of the seal.
This tool makes use of this open space which is approximately 5/16 in.
This puller was made as follows: (see
pictures on Page 3)
section of 1 55/64th ID round steel tubing with 3/32 in. wall cut to a
length of 1 ¼ in. ( I used the inner
steel tube from the old 1954 Chev. torque tube drive shaft.)
Think of the ends of the tubing being designated
as “A” and “B”
inward 5/32 in. from the “A” end and using a 7/64 in. drill bit, holes were drilled at ½ inch increments around the
circumference of the tubing.
½ inch standard thread nut was pressed into the hole in a ¾ in. steel washer
and welded in place.
The nut/washer combo was welded to cover the “B”
end of the tubing.
end of a ½ in. X 2 ½ in. standard thread steel bolt was tapered to generally
match the reverse of the taper in the end of the transmission output shaft. (picture
@ bottom Page 3)
G. # 6
X ½ in. hex head metal screws were screwed into the 7/64 in. diameter holes
previously drilled into the “A”. After
threads in the puller are created, remove the screws (to be installed again
A. Visualizing where the open pace inside the seal is (see above), position the puller over the seal so that the holes for the metal screws are over this open space.
B. With the puller properly positioned, a small amount of the rubber on the seal will probably still be visible (see picture on page 4)
C. Insert the ½ in tapered steel bolt into the rear of the puller and hand tighten until it lightly touches tapered hole in the end of the output shaft.
D. Install the #6 X ½ in screws in the puller.
E. Using a ¼ in. hex box end wrench, hand tighten each screw enough to penetrate the rubber coating on the seal while just lightly touching the metal ring underneath the rubber.
A. Tighten the ½ in. bolt in the center of the puller until the seal is removed.
Cup Puller Components
Puller Clamped on Cup