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Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 2:47 pm
LJ80/LJ50 side gears are bigger. Some LJ80 side gears also take a larger axle.
Am doing the diff swapping stripping thing today. Have to fit the disc brakes of the Lj50 diff to the lj 80 diff and set up the lock rite and the quaife locker. May have some left over if you want me to send them to you. Will let you know.
Will take some pics.
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:05 pm
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:16 pm
Interesting, the outside diameter is about the same. How does this compare with an LJ20 side gear? My guess is that the LJ20 is smaller.
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 6:29 pm
MAN that axle looks beefed up!!!!!!!!
Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 3:29 am
I was suprized to see that the lj50 side gear actually has more material around where the axle is inserted than the lj80 rear gear does. that means the gear is stronger than the lj80 gear!
so, does anyone know if there is any difference in length of the inside of a lj10-20 carrier and an lj80 carrier? I need to look around on this site to see if there are any measurements of them. if there isnt much difference in length, the locker will definately work for the 10's and 20's!
Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2005 1:33 pm
thanks to Jock for sending me the 50 gears to work with!
ok, the 50 gear has a taller flange and it is also thicker wall than the 10 gear. this means that it will not fit in the carrier where this is supposed to sit. so the carrier will have to be bored, and possibly deeper if possible but only where the gear flange sits. the gear itself( the part with the teeth only)without the shim is a little taller, but only the thickness of the lj10 shim. remember though Smuz had to add shims to the 20 side gear to make it work with the locker, so this height difference should work out good. I didnt widen the opening on the carrier any and the gear barrely slides in, but it does slide in through the opening.
Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:31 pm
I didnt widen the opening on the carrier any and the gear barrely slides in, but it does slide in through the opening.
Yeah, but the locker couplers WON't go thru that opening.
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 1:12 pm
I still need to take the parts to themachine shop for a price estimate, but I got to thinking about something.....
how many of you who have welded your gears for a locker have ended up breaking the pinion or stripping the teeth on the ring gear or something like that? what I thought was that if this happens easily, then depending on the cost of the locker when its completed, it may not be worth the money. but dont get me wrong, I will still check into the machine work and the like. I was just curious about breakage!
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 4:29 pm
I was just curious about breakage!
Me too, since Mouser's front is welded.
Hey Jimny! I know you trashed a few locked front axles and you went thru birfields like popcorn, but did ya ever break anything else in those front ends?
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 6:54 pm
Just two birfields is all I broke. Probably both were broke just like the one you have.
You know in fact I take that back, the first one was NOT a birfield that broke it was a tooth in the steering gear box, I have only broke one birfield and it's the one you have. They were pretty strong. If I remember right (
) it was in a pretty good bind in a bunch of large rocks when it SNAPPED.
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2005 9:48 pm
it was in a pretty good bind in a bunch of large rocks when it SNAPPED.
It sure as hell did snap! that one was "sploded!!!!
That makes me feel better because I got Sammi birfields in Mouser (bigger, heavier) and I'm gonna put on birfield rings before I wheel him hard.
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 6:46 am
That bad huh?
Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 1:58 pm
what about a spool? I know someone who says that he can have them made. anyone interested? yes, when I get time I will still look into the other locker.
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 2:36 am
my buddy says he can have a casting made that will fit in place of the side gears that pins into the carier like a lockrite or ez-locker. this would make it into a spool. I have to send him the carrier and side gears so he can make a pattern to work from. he is currently making adapters for dual tranfercases on older toyota automatics. before he made the adapter the only option anyone had was to use a new style automatic for the swap. now I need to get off my keester and ship it to him. he is thinking about just making the whole carrier instead, but I think the other would be easier for the back yard mech. to install, and be strong enough. so, if this works out do you want your side gears back? I dont know what kind of price he wants to make them yet, we are working thru that too. he is working with Chico state college to have his parts casted right now so I assume thats who he would have make these.
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:00 am
I'm very interested in at least two sets, maybe four. Depends on the price of course.
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:48 am
I finally got off my a$$ and put that locker together properly and put it in Mouser's front end. I'll be testing it this summer and will let ya'll know how it works.
One thing I didn't make clear in my write up was the relative sizes of the side gear and the lockrite coupler. Although the lockrite coupler is larger than the side gear, the coupler DOES engage ALL of the side gear. It's just bigger so that all of the coupler isn't engaged.
Another thing that I've been thinking about is the loss of the centering boss on the carrier cover and the forces at play. I see no rotational forces acting on this cover. The only major lateral forces I can see would be from the axle transmitted thru the side gear. I don't think that will be enuf to displace a properly torqued and locked cover plate. Just for fun, I'm gonna try it with out any centering device.
If it does turn out to need centered, I have several ideas in mind:
1. Dowel pins. Drill 2 1/4" or so holes in the cover and carrier and either use spring (split) pins or solid pins. The solid pins could be easily held in place by locating them under the bolt locking plates.
2. Taper the holes in the cover and use taper washers to center things. Similar to the taper washers on an SJ413 front hub. I think the pins would be easier
3. Since the lockrite coupler is oversized, it would be effective to reduce the outside diameter of the coupler to a size that would fit into an unaltered carrier.
Since I don't wanna render this locker unusable for its intended purpose (LJ80) I'm not gonna do option 3. If this locker works and works good, then my choice would be #3.
Paul, you got anything to add on this?
Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:27 pm
no, well said smuz! so I guess my buddy should beat the price of the lj80 locker. I still havent sent that off.
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:19 pm
Number 3 is not an option. I remember (now) that the holes for the pins and springs are too close to the edge of the coupler to be able to cut it down.
On the bright side, I took Mouser out this last weekend and introduced him to a couple of major hills with this locker installed. I have "observations".
1. Mouser steered so VERY much better in 4WD with this locker than he did with the welded side gears! Just night and day difference. No pulling to the side or trying to yank the steering wheel out of your hands. Nice manners.
2. The locker performed flawlessly and made no noises at all. No "click", no "clunk" no "rat-tat-tat". It just worked.
On the whole, this locker perfomed super well. Much better and more docile than the front Lock-rite in my Sammi. Dunno if that's actual, subjective, or just wishfull thinking. But the damn thing feels good.
One duck don't make no row, however, and it will take lots more trials before I'm satisfied that it is viable. I'm really encouraged, tho.
Time will tell.
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:51 pm
I searched for 1520 locker on the site and it said sj410?
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:54 pm
Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 4:00 pm
After about 6 outings, I'm gonna say that this locker works great. I've broken both front axles twice (welded axles, broke at the welds) and the locker never once failed to work. The next time I build one the only change that I would make is to pin the carrier cover. Next time I do it I'll take pics of that.
Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 8:15 pm
I prolly oughta update this.
I did put the locker in Mouser's front end. It worked flawlessly for about a dozen trips until he snapped his front axles again at the 2006 Disney LJ meet.
I then removed it from Mouser and it's now in the front of Sleepy where it seems to be performing very well, although I haven't wheeled him hard yet. It really has less quirks than the locker in my Sammi and is very well behaved in the steering dept.
I thought that after a few hard runs this fall, I'd take it back out this winter, disassemble it and check for wear or anything going wrong. I'll update again after that.
I'm pleased with it so far.
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 2:58 pm
WOOT! i just ordered a couple lockers from 4WheelParts
time to embarass some Sammys
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:28 pm
I don't know if this is relevant to any one, but a mixed and matched sj410 parts and LJ50 parts and a Lock Right 1520 into the rear of my LJ50.
I used the LJ carrier, put the SJ410 side gears in and threw it all back together. Seems to work fine so far.
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 6:42 am
Awesome! Very good info to know.